The preservation and recovery of cars is a mechanical or cosmetic repair of cars. For example, the guidance of the Antique Automobile Club of America (AACA) is to "evaluate antique vehicles, which have been returned to the same country as dealers can prepare vehicles for delivery to customers."
Recovery means removing, replacing, or repairing parts of the vehicle, while preservation means keeping the original component.
Although automotive restorations are generally defined as reconditioning vehicles "from the original condition in an effort to restore them to new or better conditions," there are many styles in which the vehicle can be recovered, whichever can be done in the wisdom, desire, or sense of the vehicle owner or restorer.
Video Preservation and restoration of automobiles
Styles
Tradisional
Traditional restorations are characterized as returning the vehicle back to its original state or better "in an effort to return it to a condition like new or better... it can be repaired using original or reproduction sections or techniques." Traditional restoration can be done with the focus to fully restore or preserve as many original components as possible during the restoration process. Steve Segal, owner and restorer of Pontiac Trans Am 455 HO in 1972, explains the difference between the two methods when describing his project in a Pontiac High Performance magazine article: "'This is not a recovery in the traditional sense to diagnose and unpack, bag and mark all sections so you know where they are going, if possible take a posture before you remove it and place it on the bag, peel it, clean it, fix it, re-color it, and put it all back, "he said." It's a conservation-focused restoration. It is done from an archaeological perspective. The ultimate goal is to undertake the utmost effort to uncover, reference, document, and preserve any and all existing and completed components. "
Car Restorations of Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin also took the same approach when performing the 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 recovery described in a series of articles published in Car Craft Magazine; "Although not entirely unimpeded, it's so close, so much so that the decision is made to preserve as much as possible rather than just tearing it down, peeling it off, and starting from scratch." The level of preservation of this originality in the restoration of antique vehicles has proven to produce more value than some fully refurbished vehicles at auction in recent years.
The process of returning some very rare antique vehicles back to their original showroom floor condition as a whole becomes increasingly difficult from time to time due to the depletion of resources, parts, and equipment. Some parts may not be available to replace or replicate through fabrication for some rare and antique vehicles unless proper research is undertaken. This is one of the reasons why preservation has been a major goal in many restorations, especially rare antique vehicles, to preserve the historical aspects of the vehicle, its components, and its original assembly process.
Resto-modification
Resto-modification, also known as resto-modding , is when "you take the old car and modernize it with an updated engine, suspension, brake, tires and [/or] electronics. in the right way, you can return to the stock anytime. " Stock is" A vehicle that has not been modified and is in the same configuration as it came from the factory. " Various reasons for making a resto-modification on vintage cars may include the owner's desire to have modern conveniences, improvements in safety or reliability of the vehicle, and/or improvement of road performance or driving on the track. Modifications Resto for modern comfort and security may include additional features such as air conditioning, power windows, power steering, power brakes, seat belts, or radio/stereo systems that may not be installed in the vehicle at the time of production.
Example of resto-modding is 1970 Ford Torino Brougham 429 Cobra Jet owned and diresto-modded by Kevin Young, published by Car Craft magazine. "... Young notices some unusual valvetrain sounds, even though it turns out that a set of lifters will solve the problem, in the best rodder tradition, Young sees it as an opportunity to break down the bike and build something better.The goal is a reliable gas pump engine, friendly way, and easy to use on road tires, while maintaining the appearance of a refurbished factory - including iron intake and exhaust manifold. "Young completes this by performing rebuilding the original engine and modifying the original differential, while maintaining and/or recovering many of the original components of the car another.
According to Young, many fans are not happy with him and feel that his modification compromises the originality of a very rare car, to be one of three built like that. Although many fans of the restoration and preservation community feel this about resto-modding, many others support it, such as TV personality and car collector Jay Leno: "Some puritans refuse to change or modify these old cars I see this way: If it makes the car better, safer, more reliable and faster - and you can turn it back into stock whenever you want - why not do it. "
Replica
Replica , rebuilding , or homage , is "Vehicles that have been modified to look like a car or other truck completely, or like a more desirable version of the same vehicle. "Replica replication is often done by fans who want to imitate certain rare or famous vehicles, such as from a particular movie or TV show. One example is Trey Gee and his Pontiac LeMans 1970s published in High Performance Pontiac magazine, which has been restored to replicate a more rare Pontiac GTO Judge in the same year, a car that has recorded "auction price [peaking] at the well. " more than $ 300,000. "Trey was quoted in an article as saying" 'I really want the classic GTO, but with the power, the driving, and the convenience to rival a modern car - a great car to drive. At the same time, I do not want to modify the original GTO or Judge and put many miles on it, because I would feel guilty for depreciating a piece of history, so I decided that a tribute car built as a resto-mod would be my best choice. ""
Some individuals in the auto enthusiast community do not approve of replica restorations because of previous cases where some individuals performed the restoration, such as turning Pontiac LeMans 1967 into a Pontiac GTO replication in the same year, a rarer model, and selling fraudulently. it is advertised as a more rare and more sought after model with a higher price tag.
Preservation of exterior wear
The preservation of exterior wear is characterized as leaving the body of antique cars and paints that are not stored and in 'as-is' condition, or by preserving patina. Patina describes a vehicle exterior that has a "natural finish that includes years of wear, tear, and vehicle repair that has been gained over decades of devotion." Antique vehicles with patina are often "Judged for their originality and historical significance, not for the quality of restoration." David Gooding, founder and president of Gooding & amp; The classic car auction company describes patina as "the fingerprint of the producer there, and the owner.You see a car with a big patina and you know it has a character like nothing else.It has a personality, a unique personality, and when you" you will seeing those cars being restored - they really miss it. It's all cleaned and cleaned and polished and then it's the same as any other, and back to level. "
Examples of this style of preservation/restoration include the Steven Henderson 1928 Ford Model A published in Motor News Hemmings magazine, along with the 1960 Ford F-100 Matt Tucker published in Diesel Power magazine. Henderson bought his '28 Ford 'car with an 80-year-old body and paint but decided only to bring the vehicle back to running conditions and leave the exterior as before. Henderson's reason for doing so, according to him, is to preserve his character and originality. Tucker bought his 60 Ford pickup with decades of wear and discoloration, but he thought he decided it was best to preserve his imperfection by covering it with a clear layer.
Maps Preservation and restoration of automobiles
Mechanical
Process
Complete restoration not only includes repair of visible parts - body, trim, chrome, wheel and passenger compartment - but also unnecessary or noticeable components including engine and engine compartment, trunk, frame, driveline and all parts additions such as brakes, accessories, engine cooling systems, electrical systems, etc. Improvements are made to correct the obvious problem, as well as for cosmetic reasons. For example, even if the wheel is covered by a full and invisible hubcap, and structurally sounds, the tire should be removed and any necessary repairs are performed such as rust removal, straightening, coating, and painting.
Disassembly
Complete automatic restoration may include total removal of the body, engine, driveline components and associated parts of the car, total disassembly, cleaning and repair of each major part and its components, replacing damaged, worn or worn parts. assembly and testing. As part of the restoration, each part should be thoroughly inspected, cleaned and repaired, or if individual parts repair will be too expensive, replaced (assuming correct, quality parts are available) required to return the entire car to "as it was sold" condition.
All parts showing wear or damage originally painted are usually stripped from old paint, with damage associated with rust or rust being repaired, dents and ripples removed and then the metal is smoothed, embroidered and painted in color to match the original color of the factory. Parts of wood must be thoroughly inspected and repaired by returning, replacement of damaged or termite wood, sealing and purifying to conform to factory specifications. Pressure treatment with preservatives can be considered to protect against future wood rot. Chrome and trim may require stripping and repair/refinement. Fasteners with chisel marks, broken yarn, or corrosion need to be re-plated or replaced-unless the car was originally sold that way. Frames should be cleaned and repaired thoroughly if necessary. Often the abrasive blasting of the frame is the fastest cleansing method, but may still leave microscopic rust spots behind, so it should be followed up with a rust killer solution of phosphoric acid, prior to priming. Abrasive blasting using less abrasive soda or a crushed canary shell is less likely than sandblasting to cause damage to fragile objects, while still eliminating corrosion. The acid tank that dips the skeleton and or body followed by E-coat primers after repair is recognized as the most effective but also the most expensive way to remove rust and protect against future corrosion. The frame of the chassis must be properly coated for rust protection at least according to the original standard, with the highest modern standards will protect the time and money invested in the restoration.
Interior
The inside of the vehicle should be inspected and repaired or replaced to match the available ones from the factory. The chairs should be repaired before re-coating and the coil's eye is repaired, replaced, or retired. The instrument panel or dashboard contains a number of gauges, each of which must be inspected and cleaned, repaired, or replaced to be brought back to the car's operational and cosmetic standards when first sold.
Technological developments have made it possible to save the original car interior with various restoration processes. Examples include leather seats, dashboards, consoles, steering wheel, door panels and repair latches, and re-immersion.
Exterior
In a complete restoration, the repair and refinement of the car body and the frame of the car must be thoroughly inspected and repairs and resurfacing as necessary to bring the car to its first state of sale.
As part of the automotive recovery process, repair of the car framework is important as it serves as the foundation for the entire car. Frames should be checked for straightness, twisting, straightening, rust damage, stress fractures, collision damage and mounting point conditions for body, suspension, and other components. Any problem needs to be fixed, which can be an expensive process. For many popular cars, replacement frames can be purchased from component suppliers specializing in the manufacture of the vehicle. This is often a better option than investing money into a heavily damaged frame. Depending on the skeletal construction, mud and water can fit into the frame and cause rust from the inside out, so it can be seriously weakened with little or no external sign. This, and the fact that many replacement casings are galvanized, provide additional sound reasons for considering replacement frames.
If there is a rust on the body panel, the panel is damaged by collision, or other damage is present, there are several options for repair: repairing damaged panels (minor damage), replacement (excessively damaged panels), or cut and partially replace the panel (medium- for many ancient car brands, a small partial patch panel is available and designed to be welded into place after damaged parts are cut off). While this may seem simple in principle, in practice it is a highly skilled job. One of the highest skills in restoration is the use of the British Wheel or Wheel Machine to create complete compound grooves from scratch. Many panels, (especially if from different sources), may be a problem to fit together and need to be reshaped to fit together properly. Variations in panel sizes and shapes and 'fettling' by skilled metal craftsmen in factory production lines to make panels fit to be used to be common practice, especially with British and Italian sports cars. Even the original factory panel of New Old Stock may require the soldering skill of the panel to fit.
Repairing the repaired or updated panels requires that the panels be tried and aligned, to check for compatibility, that the shape is 'flowing' and the gap between the panels is correct. A consistent gap is crucial for quality completion. Gapping gauges are available for this. Doors, hoods and luggage should open and close properly, and there should be no disturbance or friction. Leather door steel or aluminum and wing/edge fenders are generally adjustable with hammer and dolly, in the extreme case of MIG bead welding beads on the edge of the panel, formed with grinders and files, can be a good solution. At one time it was common practice to use lead loading to achieve tight panel gaps, especially in coachbuilding business, but also on production lines. Lead loading is highly skilled and requires security precautions due to ingestion of lead or toxic fumes. The panel should 'look right' together. This is a recurring adjustment process because a one-panel adjustment often affects compatibility between others. If there are some styling lines on the side of the car, it is generally better to align the door on the most prominent ones. When the panels in the car are satisfactory, they must be solidified and painted the true historical color for the vehicle if the restoration seeks for historical accuracy. Owners may want the car to be painted to look like a special vehicle such as a police car, or a painted delivery van to look like the color of a grandfather's company, etc. Individual panel painting is generally the correct approach. , as this will result in all parts of the panel being painted as opposed to partially re-assembling and then painting, leaving the assembly parts touching or "blind" unpainted. Useful to mark in a certain way, if possible, where the panels are fitted before they are removed for painting, to assist with the re-installation. A separate painting approach should also result in no spraying on other parts because they will not be in the car at that time. This is important when re-assembling painted panels to realize that the paint is at its thinnest point, and most easily damaged at angles, edges, and elevated structuring lines, and to be extra careful with them, such as temporary recording with masking tape. This is also important when using very fine wet adhesive paper before polishing, (or when using an electric polishing mop) for the finest mirror-like finish.
The colors and treatments applied to the panel from the factory should be considered. Although it looks more original, period paint enamel or cellulose will be less able to protect the car bodywork than modern paint. Car owners may want to have a panel or a portion of a fully painted car when in fact it may come from a factory with an undercoat or other layers applied on one side, which may be less attractive than painted and painted panels seamlessly. In other cases, the owner may paint or install a collection of small parts to look similar to a better view, when the factory may have installed various colors because the main concern of the factory is the balance between functionality and cost and not appearance. an invisible area. Given the cost of recovery, it makes sense for many owners to improve the corrosion protection of paint, underseal, and anti-rust waxes well above the original factory standards to protect the time and money invested in the restoration. Some owners feel this improvement will make the car a "Restomod", and not a restoration. The term "Restomod" is not used in the UK.
Mechanical
All machines and all related systems are checked and whatever is required to bring them to the original presale condition is done. Machines and all supporting components - starter, generator/alternator, radiator, distributor, carburetor and others - should be checked and corrected to factory specifications. The machine itself, plus the transmission unit, clutch, overdrive, and even the driveshaft should be thoroughly inspected, cleaned, and measured for use. This will appear as a deviation from the original manufacturer's specifications. All parts - blocks, crankcase, heads, home transmissions, etc. - should be checked for any cracks or other damage. All moving parts - pistons, crankshafts, camshafts, oil pumps, bearings and bushing, flywheels, water pumps and others - must be cleaned and measured on factory specifications and, if necessary, machine-made or reproduced to carry them in specifications. The same applies to transmission, coupling, differential and all other moving parts of the power lines and driveline. All electrical systems should be checked and, if it indicates abrasions, wear or damage, is replaced. If the car is old enough to use rubber or even fabric-based power cable insulation, this should be replaced even if it looks okay and upgraded to modern insulation because of the risk of fire. Then the entire engine/driveline should be reassembled, replacing all worn bearings and bushing, seals, gaskets, belts and gears.
Reassembly
Finally, the engine/driveline must be reassembled in the frame, brake, wheel and other parts reassembled, the body is fitted to the frame and the entire car is re-examined and tested.
Car restoration is a daunting task, not a lighter, or inexperienced one. Full recovery can take years and can cost tens of thousands of dollars; often, and generally, far beyond what the car's final value would be. A lot of work must be processed into specialty stores; those who have the specialized knowledge and tools to do the job. Often once restoration begins not completed and cars and parts can be purchased for a fraction of their value. However, if someone buys an unfinished project, it is important to make sure that all parts are there. Finding spare parts for orphans or rare cars is sometimes impossible. This requires the creation of parts from scratch, generally with great effort and cost.
There are different levels of automotive repair. The highest level of quality, generally not obtainable for amateur restorers, is the level of Concours d'Elegance ; these are cars that are often restored to some degree often out of quality when they leave the factory. There is virtually no deficiency in the quality of parts that are completely restored. The parts that do not come on the car as first sold must have the highest level of conformity and completion, and seem to be the original parts. Many Concept cars are not moved except for short distances from their trailers to show areas.
Only when the car is completely placed back to the condition it was first sold, it was considered restored. Various aspects of the car can be repaired without a restored car. A car that can not run can be fixed to the running condition, but that means the car will now run and does not mean that every part of the car has been restored. Automotive restoration means the car is restored to the first condition sold as. The other is a repair or resto-mod. Among these two extremes are most of the cars seen as drivers, environmental show cars, and 20 feet - because they look great from a distance of 20 feet (6 m). Many value guides offer six levels of quality, from "only-part" cars to the best in "Number 1" - absolutely perfect in every way.
For amateur restorers, or even experienced restraints, there are a large number of aid sources, books, and magazines (Knuckles Cursed in the US or Practical Classics in the UK, for example) to help restore entire cars or parts. There are also fan websites that can offer helpful suggestions and contacts for vehicle recovery.
Recovery ground-up
There are many existing recovery facilities that offer a wide range and quality of service. Some businesses focus their work on only certain components, such as engines, gas tanks, clocks, or chromed parts. Others perform complete restoration or remanufacturing of almost all cars including its components. This includes restoration to a finished factory level or better condition from the factory. Some businesses have the capacity to recover and make all components in the home paired with the ability to rebuild the car no matter what the condition of decay (or literally how many cars are left, sometimes as few as a single sepatbor remain and no more). There are also restoration services provided by original manufacturers, such as Ferrari and Aston Martin.
Upgrade
In the US, an unauthenticated restored car can be called a "restomod". Upgrades may include newer safety components such as seat belts, brakes or using relays to reduce the flow of electricity that flows through the lamp switch. Use upgrades such as wiper intermittent fittings, non-dynamo alternators, or electronic ignition systems are not contact point-breaking contact systems. Upgrade emissions such as hardened valve seats to use standard unleaded fuel, or catalytic converters installed. Elevations that are easily restored to their original state, or available when the vehicle is still there, will tend to be controversial. Less acceptable to the classic car market might be major changes like engine swap or gearbox transmission, which would be more like a hot rodding.
Depending on how appropriate the upgrade is considered by other owners of the same model, this can reduce or increase the value of the car. If a car regularly uses non-genuine upgrades it will tend to be more acceptable, than if the car is a collector part stored in which originality would be more important. This is important as a restorer or owner, to know what a potential market for a ready-made car is getting, so as not to lose its value.
See also
References
External links
- Tips & amp; Tricks from Pro in MetalShapers.Org Aluminum Automotive History by Kent White
- Restore Red Line Car Restoration "Owner David C Atkin of Red Line Restoration edits this article for accuracy".
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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